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Kathmandu in a Nutshell

This article was first published on nepalnews.com in December 2009.

A machine gun! It only took me ten minutes after arriving at Kathmandu to find a machine gun pointed to my head. I was desperately struggling for a good explanation why I was running back into the airport without a bag and without my passport. The answer was pretty easy though. Stupid me thought the immigration officer in Nepal would accept Nepalese Rupees to pay for the Visa. I didn‘t bring anything else. Unfortunately, I didn‘t even have enough Rupees and an ATM is only one of the modern amenities Kathmandu‘s airport does not provide. However, running out of the building in order to find a bank and get some US$ is a really good way to get in touch with the local security personnel. And after explaining to the guard the reasons why I was desperately trying to find some Dollar notes, it only took me ten seconds to change his machine gun into a warm and friendly smile. Protecting the homeland against foreign terrorists obviously isnt‘t the biggest concern for Nepalese authorities in these days. A couple of days after this airport incident, the ubiquitous sense of serenity prevails almost everywhere throughout Kathmandu. Whether I stroll through the cramped roads of the old town, watch the Nepal Police Club on its way to win the Gurkha Cup Trophy or enjoy my Tongba at a candle-lit bar in less crowded districts like Baluwatar: People in Kathmandu are hardly ever disconcerted.

Instead of dealing with security forces, a much better way to explore the city‘s nature is to drive around on a motorbike with a local. However, don‘t expect a second helmet. Just smile and accept the elemental rules of life: The bigger your vehicle, the more likely you are to succeed in getting to your destination. Policemen organizing the traffic should be respected, though all you risk when you don‘t pay attention is a serious blow into their whistles. Most important of all, stay calm. After almost being involved in a serious accident, people all over the world would take a deep breath and start yelling at their counterparts in the surrounding vehicles (obviously, it‘s never your own fault). Not here. Drivers just move on. In Nepal, it‘s more important to quickly continue your journey than to assault someone. Riding on a bike also gives you the opportunity to get a general idea on Kathmandu in just a few days. To explore huge and impressive temples, to get amazed by medieval districts and to watch the incredible number of cows trying to find dinner on the streets.

Getting to know the city by foot is at least as intense. Thousands of people in the most narrow streets one could imagine let you feel like a small ant struggling for survival. Anyway, the overwhelming amount of different impressions, surrounding scents and diverse food vendors makes it incredibly simple to fall in love with areas like Tengal, Dhalko or Mahabaudha in a minute. As a foreigner, not being able to read the signs in front of bars, restaurants and stores is actually a pretty good hint to see that you‘ve taken the right direction. It basically means that you‘ve left the touristy areas and that you‘re moving away from „Direct bus to India“, from „Cheap Pashmina“ and alike. Instead, there are small teahouses hidden behind curtains. Spices and vegetables are sold on the streets. There are marvelous small restaurants with barely a sign or menu, selling anything from Dal Bhat to Momos. After a few moments sitting in a local teahouse far away from fancy Thamel, I found myself being involved in a chat with locals about the polluted air, about travelling to India and, of course, about the beauty of other parts of Nepal. Moments like this make a busy capital like Kathmandu appear like a small village in the middle of nowhere. And, after all, moments like this eventually give me a chance to use my barely existing Nepali language skills: Mero ghar Germany ho.

Kathmandu might not be as diverse as other Asian capitals like Bangkok or Beijing and it is certainly the exact opposite of overwhelmingly clean and well-organized Singapore. However, it is definitely one of the rare places on earth that take your breath away as soon as you step out of the door. Even during somehow extraordinary events like political strikes or several hours without electricity do inhabitants prove a sense of laid-back normality. This heart-warming attitude never seems to get lost, not even with a machine gun in one‘s hands.